Japan Diaries
Some highlights from my 10-day solo trip.
Tokyo
Stay: The Tokyo Edition Toranomon — booked after a strong recommendation from my FORA travel advisor, Sara — exceeded every expectation. Not only is it beautifully designed with sleek, sexy details, it also offers incredible views of Tokyo Tower. There’s also nothing I love more than a hotel buffet breakfast and let me tell you this one was an 11/10.
Coffee: I was overwhelmed (in the best way) by the long list of coffee shop recommendations. I found BONGEN COFFEE through AmiGo and ended up going back three times. They have two locations— one tucked away on a quiet street in Ginza and other in Nihonbashi with plenty of space to relax and people-watch. My go-to: a matcha with almond milk and two shots of espresso. Yes I’m aware this is crazy but also the easiest jet-lag antidote. Praying they open a location in LA.
Matcha: I found this place called Hatoya during a TikTok tunnel (very easy to do with searching for Japan content). The matcha here is bold, earthy, and beautifully balanced — one of my favorites from the trip. I even went back hours before my return flight to pick up a bag for myself and some for friends.
To See: Besides the classics like Tsukiji Outer Market and Shibuya Scramble Crossing, I started my first day of the trip at Kyu Asakura House. It’s the perfect introduction to Tokyo’s contrasts — a serene, traditional home surrounded by the buzz of modern Daikanyama. It feels like stepping back in time within one of the city’s trendiest neighborhoods. For after the tour take a short walk to Tsutaya Books.
Wine: Vineria II Passaggio is a tiny natural wine bar worth visiting just to enjoy a glass of vino in an unexpected vessel: a seashell cup. It’s cozy and intimate for a pre-dinner or late-night wind-down.
A Surprise: My final night ended at Ahiru Store, a natural wine bar and restaurant in Shibuya I found on AmiGo. It’s tiny (only eight bar seats and a few standing barrels), and apparently the line starts at 3 PM right when they open. The small plates (ceviche, homemade sausage, fresh bread, pâté) paired with an unpretentious atmosphere made it the perfect closing note to my Tokyo stay.
Kyoto
Stay: Ace Hotel is a design-forward standout nestled within the city’s traditional architecture. My favorite perk? The free bike rentals — such a fun way to explore. Kyoto is incredibly bike-friendly, with dedicated lanes and paths that connect to the river. I borrowed one for an early-morning coffee run and instantly felt like a local.
Coffee: Blue Bottle has a few locations, but something more local, try Weekenders and % Arabica.
Matcha: Gokago was yet another find on one of my social media tunnels. There’s a long wait (thanks, algorithm), but the creamy, smooth matcha is worth it. It’s located in Gion — one of Kyoto’s most tourist-heavy areas — so bring your patience.
To eat: Hikiniku to Come was a recommendation from my friend MK who I often turn to for the best recommendations on where to eat. They serve just one thing — Japanese-style hamburgers — but they do it exceptionally well. Three perfectly grilled patties cooked over charcoal, served with rice, soup, an egg, and unlimited condiments. Drool.
To visit: Three “must-sees” are places that are not the traditional Kyoto visits. The first was the house tour of fames ceramic artist Kawai Kanjiro’s who dedicated his space to live, play, and create. His home has now been turned into a museum where you can wander and see his pieces that include ceramics, wood working, and calligraphy. What stood out the most was the Kanjiro was known for creating simply just because he wanted to. He dabbled in different mediums and found deep fulfillment through creative work. A sentiment you can really feel as you walk through the space. The second spot is Arashiyama Yusai-Tei Gallery that is a Meiji-era building that’s nestled amongst the Katsura River. Sit in the Mirrored Room and enjoy the beauty of the surroundings. Lastly, Moss Temple created a level of such deep calm within myself that I’ve been trying to emulate that same feeling everyday since. You can’t speak when walking through the temple grounds allowing you the freedom to truly immerse yourself in the experience.
Naoshima Island
To see: There’s a few long list but must sees are: Hiroshi Sugimoto Gallery: Time Corridors, Valley Gallery, Art House Project “Minamidera,” and lastly Chichu Art Museum that features five pieces from my first and still most favourite artist: Claude Monet. I shared this on my Instagram and I’ll say it again seeing Water Lilies brought tears to my eyes and reminded me of why I love art so much. Through his struggles on losing his vision, instead of seeing this as a setback, he harnessed it to create the most beautiful pieces of artwork for others to love, enjoy, and be moved by.
How to get around: e-bike or walk! Naoshima was the highlight of my trip because I felt like the day on the island was the most free I had ever felt or experienced. How rare is it to just spend a day absorbing art while whipping around on a bicycle outside? It definitely made me feel like a kid again.
Don’t forget: Buy all of your tickets for each exhibit in advance—this is a must! Often the time slots are sold out or only accept a limited number of reservations per day. I admittedly purchased my tickets before even booking a hotel (wouldn’t recommend but you catch my drift).
Coffee: You’ll need plenty of fuel to get around between those hills (sorry there are a few but that’s why e bikes exist) so make sure to stop by Hifumiyo Coffee.
Unexpected: There’s an onsen right in Uno Port (the port where you’ll catch the ferry to the island) that is ideal after a long day of biking and walking.
Thoughts on a cloud
A mix of thoughts or things that were either unexpected learnings, things I wished I had known, or journal entries that were noted through the 10-day trip.
According to Apple Health, I averaged 27k steps per day — apologies in advance to my pedicurist.
I will never look at toilets the same way ever again. My standards have also become exceptionally high in this department.
If anyone knows where I can buy Japanese mustard in LA, please don’t gatekeep.
I had a 25-minute scalp treatment at an onsen. There’s isn’t much more to say here other than you need to experience this. Period.
I wish mochi was seen as an acceptable breakfast food.
Long lines just became a norm when trying to see or experience any coffee or matcha shop. Bring your patience with you to Japan.
Do I buy a Shiba Inu to bring home?
Sounds like such an amazing trip! I’m going to try out some of these recs for my next trip. I was surprised to see Verve coffee in Shinjuku, but ended up trying out smaller roasters in Nishi Shinjuku instead.